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Lighting and switching

Making a lighting plan: what goes where

A good lighting plan is not more light but light in layers: general, task and mood, each switched separately.

Kevin HermansUpdated 20 August 20263 min read

Short answer

Think in three layers: general lighting for the room, task lighting where you do something, and mood lighting for the evening. Switch those layers separately. Choose one colour temperature for the whole house, usually around 2700 kelvin, so it stays calm. Decide this before the cabling goes in.

Who this article is for Anyone renovating or refurnishing. This is the part where you have the most say yourself.

Think in three layers

General. The light that fills the room. Spotlights, a ceiling light, or indirect light. This is what you switch on when you come in.

Task. Light where you do something: above the worktop, above the dining table, by the reading chair, at the mirror.

Mood. Low light points for the evening: table lamps, indirect light behind a cabinet, a lamp on a sideboard.

A room with only the first layer feels like an office. A room with only the third is cosy but impractical.

Switch the layers separately

That is the real difference, and during the first fix it only costs an extra cable:

  • the spotlights in two groups, front and back
  • the dining table separately
  • a switched socket for the table lamp, so you turn everything on at once by the door

That last one is a classic that hardly anyone has fitted any more, and that everyone is happy with.

Colour temperature

Choose one colour for the whole house. In a home 2700 kelvin is warm and calm; 3000 kelvin is slightly fresher and works well in a kitchen or bathroom. Above 4000 kelvin it quickly becomes clinical.

Do not mix colours in the same room. Two 2700 spotlights next to one 4000 stand out immediately.

How much light

Look at lumens, not watts. Rough guideline per room:

Guideline per roomGuideline per room100-150 lm/m²living room, in layers300 lm/m²kitchen worktop200 lm/m²bathroom plusmirror light100 lm/m²bedroom, warmLook at lumens and not watts; with LED, watts say little. Rough guidelines to get a feel for the number of points.

Room Guideline
Living room 100 to 150 lumens per square metre, in layers
Kitchen worktop 300 lumens per square metre
Bathroom 200 lumens per square metre, plus mirror lighting
Bedroom 100 lumens per square metre, warm
Hallway and stairs enough to walk safely, with a sensor

What you decide now

Where the points go and how many switches there are. You choose the fittings later, but by then the cabling is fixed. See when the electrician comes for the right moment.

From my own work

During a renovation in Meerssen the customer wanted twelve spotlights in the living room, evenly spread. That turns it into a waiting room. It became eight in two groups, with a cable to a pendant above the table and a switched socket for the table lamp. The same cost, a completely different room.

When to call an electrician

  • You are renovating and the cabling is not in yet
  • You do not know how many points a room needs
  • The light in the house feels flat or restless

I make a lighting plan during the site survey, before anything is chased. Request a quote.

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Frequently asked questions

Which colour temperature should I choose at home?

Around 2700 kelvin is warm and calm, 3000 kelvin slightly fresher for kitchen and bathroom. Do not mix colours in the same room.

What is a switched socket?

A socket controlled by the wall switch, so you turn the table lamp on by the door. Classic and still the handiest.

When does a lighting plan need to be ready?

Before the cabling goes in. You choose the fittings later, but by then the points and switches are fixed.

Further reading

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