Short answer
When selling a home, an electrical inspection is not compulsory, but it is sensible. It measures whether the earthing is sound, whether the RCDs work, whether the insulation of the cables is in order and whether the protection suits the cables. The report is useful for the buyer, the insurer and as support for the asking price.
Who this article is for Buyers, sellers and estate agents. A different regime applies to businesses, see the NEN 3140 inspection.
What is measured
An inspection is not looking but measuring. Four measurements carry the report:
Earth electrode resistance. How well the earth electrode makes contact with the ground.
Earth continuity. Does the earth actually run through to every socket and every hard-wired appliance.
Insulation resistance per circuit. Whether there is a damaged or damp cable anywhere.
Operation of the RCD. With an instrument that measures the actual trip current and time, not with the test button.
I also assess whether the protection suits the cables, whether there are earthed sockets where there should be, and the state of the wiring and the terminals.
What the report gives you
As a buyer. You know what you are buying and what needs doing in the short term. That is a negotiating point, and it is also good to know whether your child can safely put a plug in in the bathroom.
As a seller. You prevent discussion afterwards. A home with a report showing the installation is in order sells more easily than a home where the buyer just has to guess.
For the insurer. With damage, the state of the installation is sometimes looked at. A report from before the damage is then a strong document.
What often comes out of it
In homes from before 1975 I regularly come across:
This does not have to be solved in one go, but the order matters.
- no RCD on the socket circuits
- an earth wire on the water pipe, see earthing and earth rod
- cloth-covered wiring whose insulation has hardened
- too few circuits for current use
- missing earthed sockets in the kitchen or bathroom
What that means and in which order to tackle it is in recognising an old installation.
What it is not
An inspection is no guarantee that nothing will ever break, and it is not a certificate that the home meets the new-build standard. It is a snapshot with measurements, and that snapshot is exactly what you need to decide.
How it goes
Two to three hours on site for an average home. I need access to the meter cupboard and to all rooms. Afterwards you get a report with the test values, photos of what was found and a list of what must be done, what is sensible and what can wait.
From my own work
For a home from 1968 in Nuth, the buyer had an inspection done before the transfer. The earthing turned out to be connected to nothing and there was no RCD on the socket circuits. With that report the price was discussed, and after the transfer it was put right in two days. Without an inspection the buyer would only have found out after a scare in the bathroom.
When to call an electrician
- You are buying a home from before 1990 and want to know where you stand
- You are selling and want to avoid discussion afterwards
- An insurer or mortgage lender asks for a report
An inspection of a home usually takes two to three hours and you get a report with measurements and photos. Request a quote.
Frequently asked questions
Is an electrical inspection compulsory when selling?
No, not for a home. But it is the only way to show what state the installation is in at the moment of transfer.
How long does an inspection take?
For an average home two to three hours, including the measurements and going through the meter cupboard and all rooms.
Do I get a list of what needs doing?
Yes, distinguishing between what really must be done, what is sensible and what can wait, so you can choose yourself what to tackle when.
Further reading
Is my meter cupboard still safe? 10 things you can see yourself
Ten things you can see yourself without unscrewing anything. If you recognise three or more, it is time for a chat.
How old is my installation really: these are the signs
Cloth-covered wiring, no RCD, screw-in fuses and unearthed two-pin sockets: each feature tells you something about the year it was built and the risk.
Type A, type B or type F RCD: which do you need
Type A is the standard. Type B only where DC leakage can occur, and that is less often than sellers say. Saves hundreds of euros.
Questions and comments
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