Frequently asked questions

PowerNexx is my one-man business. I am Kevin Hermans and I do the work myself: consumer units, EV chargers, solar panels, faults, lighting, data networks and everything that goes with them, for homes and businesses. Always having the same person on the phone and in your home is not a coincidence, it is the whole idea.

Nationwide. My call-out charge is a fixed amount regardless of distance, so you do not pay more just because you happen to live further away. For same-day emergencies, being close by does of course work in your favour.

Monday to Saturday from 08:30 to 17:00. I am closed on Sundays. Outside those hours you can always use the contact form or the customer portal; I pick it up on the next working day. For a real emergency, call +31 43 204 18 26.

Through the complaints page on this site. You need your invoice number or quote number, so I know straight away which job it is about. Your complaint comes to me, not to a department, and if you have an account you can also see it in your customer portal. Where a third party is needed, a bricklayer for example, I depend on their diary, and I will tell you so honestly rather than promise a date I cannot meet.

The RCD sits between the main switch and the circuits. Line and neutral go in at the top and come out at the bottom to the circuit breakers and the neutral bar. The critical mistake is the neutral: every circuit must return its neutral through the same RCD it takes its line from. If it does not, everything trips straight away or, worse, it does not protect. More on this in the knowledge base

Anything with a heating element or that draws full power for a long time gets its own circuit: washing machine, dryer, dishwasher, hob, water heater, EV charger. Lighting and ordinary sockets may be combined, but split them per floor and keep lighting separate from power. More on this in the knowledge base

Each of these goes on its own circuit, and an EV charger also gets its own RCD protection. Whether it fits in your existing unit depends on three things: free modules, spare capacity on your connection and the condition of your earth connection. Expect € 250 to € 600 excl. VAT per addition if the unit can take it. More on this in the knowledge base

Inside the unit I use flexible heat-resistant wire, usually H07V2-K, with ferrules on every end. The cross-section follows the protection: 2,5 mm² at 16A, 4 mm² at 20A, 6 mm² at 25A. The colours are fixed: brown, black or grey for line, blue for neutral, green-yellow for earth. More on this in the knowledge base

Replacement is needed if you have no RCD, if you still have ceramic fuses, or if you have too few circuits for what you want in your home. A complete three-phase unit with twelve circuits, three RCDs, a three-phase power circuit and a bell transformer costs € 2.700 including VAT, fitted and with a test report. A single-phase home is quoted individually, because the condition of the existing installation matters most there. The job usually takes one day and you are without power for about four hours. More on this in the knowledge base

A heavier connection is two jobs, one after the other: the grid operator upgrades the connection, I adapt the installation. You apply yourself via mijnaansluiting.nl. Expect a lead time of six to twelve weeks and € 500 to € 1.500 in grid operator costs, plus € 2.231 for a complete new three-phase consumer unit. More on this in the knowledge base

An average family home these days has twelve to sixteen circuits. I do not work out the exact number with a rule of thumb but room by room: anything with a heating element or that draws full power for a long time gets its own circuit. On top of that come at least four empty modules as spare. More on this in the knowledge base

A DIN-rail sub-meter measures the consumption of one circuit or one part of the installation. If you want to recharge the usage to a tenant, a business or a member of an owners' association (VvE), the meter must be MID-certified. For your own insight any meter will do. More on this in the knowledge base

The standard Dutch meter cupboard in new builds is about 750 mm wide and 340 mm deep, with the top of the meter board at about 1800 mm. In older homes it often differs. Before you order a bigger consumer unit, measure the free width on the meter board, not the cupboard itself. More on this in the knowledge base

On an analogue timer you push the tabs out for the hours it should be on, and turn the dial to the correct time. On a digital timer you first set the current time and day, then the on and off times per programme. If your lights come on at the wrong time, the timer has almost always fallen behind after a power cut. More on this in the knowledge base

With single-phase, one live conductor enters your home and you have about 8 kW available. With three-phase there are three, with about 17 kW. You can tell in ten seconds: count the main fuses below your meter. One is single-phase, three is three-phase. More on this in the knowledge base

All the big brands meet the same standards and are equally safe. The difference lies in whether parts will still be available in ten years, how easy the unit is to extend, and whether your installer works with it every day. My standard choice is Hager, but on request I build in any brand. More on this in the knowledge base

With a single-phase connection you charge at up to 3,7 kW and your car needs about twelve hours on the charger for a full battery. With three-phase that goes up to 11 kW and about four hours. The choice depends not only on your connection but also on your car: many cars only charge at home on single-phase or at 11 kW maximum anyway. A dedicated circuit with its own RCD protection is always required. More on this in the knowledge base

A charging point must be protected against DC faults. That can be done with a type B RCD, or with a type A combined with 6 mA DC detection in the charger itself. What you need depends on what the charger has built in; that is in the manual and on the rating plate. More on this in the knowledge base

The wallbox itself can be removed and taken with you. The cable in the wall or in the ground stays behind, as does the circuit in the meter cupboard. So at the new place there will be a new cable and circuit again. Expect roughly the same installation costs as for a new charger, minus the charger itself. It is often easier to leave it and settle it with the buyer. More on this in the knowledge base

For an 11 kW charger over a short distance, 5 x 2,5 mm² is often enough. Once the distance goes beyond about twenty metres, you move towards 5 x 4 or 5 x 6 mm² to keep the voltage drop within the standard. Outdoors and underground you need a cable made for that, with the right cover and a warning tape above it. More on this in the knowledge base

Load balancing measures how much current the whole house is using and turns the charger down as soon as the rest needs more. That way the main fuse stays intact. With a 3x25A connection or lighter and an 11 kW charger, it is almost always needed in practice. More on this in the knowledge base

Do not look at where the car is parked now but at where the charging port is, on your next car too. The charger goes at about 90 to 120 cm high, out of the driving line so nobody hits it, and as close to the meter cupboard as possible. Every extra metre costs money and power. More on this in the knowledge base

Work from the outside in: first the cable and the plug, then the car and its charging settings, then the charger and its light, and only then the circuit in the meter cupboard. If charging always stops at the same moment, it is usually the car or a timer. If the RCD trips, it is a question for an installer. More on this in the knowledge base

An EV charger always gets its own circuit in the meter cupboard, with its own circuit breaker and RCD protection suitable for DC faults. On top of that a separate cable runs to the charger's location, with a cross-section that suits the length and the power. If there is no room in the meter cupboard or no three-phase, that is the first thing to sort out. More on this in the knowledge base

With several charging points on one connection, a system is added that shares out the available power and records per point who charged what. For an owners' association (VvE) the members' meeting must give permission and it must be clear who pays for the electricity. Technically it is very doable, in an existing underground car park too. More on this in the knowledge base

With a dynamic contract the price changes every hour. A battery that can respond to that charges in the cheap hours and supplies your home in the expensive hours. That can noticeably increase what a battery earns. The condition is that it happens automatically and that you can cope with the price swings, in a bad year too. More on this in the knowledge base

The inverter gets its own circuit in the meter cupboard with its own circuit breaker, protected by an RCD. The cable runs from the meter cupboard to the inverter, usually in the loft or utility room. An inverter above 3,7 kW should be connected three-phase, because feeding back on just one phase unbalances the grid. More on this in the knowledge base

If the inverter switches off around midday with a message about grid voltage, it sees too high a voltage on its side. That is caused by losses in the cable, by the connection, or by a lot of power being fed back in the street. A thicker cable, a shorter route or a report to the grid operator are the solutions. More on this in the knowledge base

With net metering, what you feed back is offset against what you take, so the grid effectively acts as your battery. When the scheme ends, you get a payment for feeding back that is lower than what you pay when you take the power back later. So your panels produce as much as ever; it just pays more to use your power yourself at the moment it is there. More on this in the knowledge base

Feed-in charges are an amount your energy supplier charges for handling the power you feed back. It can be a fixed monthly amount or an amount that rises with how much you feed back. It is separate from the feed-in payment you receive. What it costs you is on your annual statement or in your contract terms. More on this in the knowledge base

A home battery goes on its own circuit, in a place that is dry and cool with space around it. It works together with the inverter and with a meter in the meter cupboard, so it knows when to charge and when to supply. The location and fire safety matter more than most people think. More on this in the knowledge base

Most problems come from connectors of different brands pushed together, cables rubbing over a roof edge, and a DC isolator that has never been checked. A DC arc does not go out by itself, so a bad connection keeps burning. Have an installation checked after a few years, especially if different firms put it in. More on this in the knowledge base

Solar panels need their own final circuit with their own protection. With one inverter that often fits in your existing unit, provided there is room. With several strings, a home battery or a three-phase system, a separate PV distribution board is wiser. Expect € 250 to € 700 excl. VAT for the electrical part, separate from the panels themselves. More on this in the knowledge base

First compare with the same month last year, because the weather varies a lot. If the difference stays large, look at shade, dirt, a failed string or an inverter switching off because of grid voltage. A string that drops out completely shows up as roughly half or a third less yield. More on this in the knowledge base

You can add panels if the inverter can handle the extra power and the strings fit within its voltage range. If it is at its limit, a second inverter is added or it needs replacing. If the total goes above 3,7 kW and you are on single-phase, three-phase becomes necessary. More on this in the knowledge base

Yes, and it is called surplus charging or solar charging. You need a meter in the meter cupboard that sees how much you are feeding back, and a charger that can adjust its current step by step. The charger then only uses the surplus. Bear in mind that charging below about 1,4 kW is not possible: that is the lower limit of the charging protocol. More on this in the knowledge base

€ 72,59 including VAT, and the amount is the same wherever you live. It is charged once per visit, not per job I do during that same visit.

Through the quote form on this site, by phone, or from your customer portal if you already have an account. Tell me as much as you can and send photos of the meter cupboard: the better I can see your situation, the sharper the quote and the smaller the chance of extra work afterwards. For bigger jobs I first come round for a site survey.

Yes, and the amount depends on what the materials cost. For one job that is half the total, for another eighty percent or even all of it. That is because the split between materials and labour varies enormously from job to job: with a home battery or solar panels almost everything is materials, while moving sockets is almost all labour. So I do not charge a fixed percentage, but exactly what needs to be ordered. What that comes to in your case is on the quote before you sign.

Because I have to pay for the materials before I can fit them at your home. I work alone and do not have tens of thousands of euros of trade credit; the wholesaler wants paying on delivery. If I pre-financed it, the cost would be built into my hourly rate and you would still pay it, just without seeing it. You pay the balance after handover, which is also your guarantee that the work really gets finished.

Every invoice has a payment link so you can pay with iDEAL. Your customer portal has the same button next to the open invoice. A bank transfer is also fine; the account number is on the invoice. For smaller jobs you can pay by card on the spot.

Yes. I give a standard two-year guarantee on my work, and on top of that the manufacturer's guarantee applies to materials, which is often longer. For a consumer unit or an EV charger you get a guarantee certificate from me with its own registration number, by email and in your customer portal. Before the period runs out you automatically get a message, so you do not miss it.

Nationally, expect € 75 to € 95 per hour excl. VAT, plus a call-out charge. With me it is € 85 per hour and € 59,99 call-out charge, both excluding VAT, nationwide and regardless of distance. Materials come on top, with a margin you are welcome to ask about. More on this in the knowledge base

The emergency rate is € 154,28 per hour including VAT, compared with € 103 per hour during office hours. The call-out charge of € 72,59 comes on top. You hear beforehand which rate applies, so you can decide yourself whether it can wait until the next working day.

That depends on what is wrong and where you live. For a burning smell, a warm socket or a home without power, I come as quickly as I can. For one circuit that is off while the rest works, I usually book the next working day. On the fault page you can see straight away which times are free, so you do not have to wait for a call back.

In the vast majority of cases a single appliance is causing earth leakage. With the step-by-step plan in the article you can find which one within half an hour, without tools and without opening the unit. Does the RCD trip even when everything is switched off? Then the fault is in the fixed installation and you need an installer. More on this in the knowledge base

A circuit breaker protects the cable. If it trips after a lot has been running for a while, it is overload: too many appliances on one circuit. If it trips straight away when you switch it on, it is a short circuit and there is a fault in the installation or in an appliance. Reset it once; if it trips again immediately, leave it off. More on this in the knowledge base

Switch off the circuit concerned, pull out the plug and leave it off. A scorching smell or a warm socket is almost always caused by a bad connection, and it only gets worse. If you smell it in the meter cupboard, switch off the main switch and call straight away. Do not wait until tomorrow. More on this in the knowledge base

If you hit a cable, the circuit breaker or the RCD usually trips. Let go of the drill, keep your hands off the bit and switch the circuit off before you touch anything. Repairing it means finding the damaged spot, joining the cable in an accessible junction box or replacing the section. Wrapping a cable in tape and plastering over it is not a repair. More on this in the knowledge base

If one light flickers or buzzes, it is usually the combination of LED and dimmer. If all lights dip briefly when an appliance kicks in, that is a voltage dip and usually normal. If lights all over the house flicker irregularly for no reason, there may be a bad connection in the main supply, and that is a reason to have it checked quickly. More on this in the knowledge base

First check whether it really is one socket or several on the same circuit. If only that one is dead, the cause is almost always a loose conductor in the loop-through, a burnt-out terminal or a damaged contact. That is work for an installer, because the box is still live even though the socket does not work. More on this in the knowledge base

If the whole street is without power, it is the grid operator, and you can report it or look it up on their outage map. If only your home is without power and nothing in the meter cupboard has tripped, it is usually the main fuse or the service head, and that is also the grid operator. If something has tripped in your own unit, it is your installation. More on this in the knowledge base

One room without power almost always means one circuit has tripped. Look in the meter cupboard for the narrow switch that is down, put it back up and see whether it stays. If it stays up, it was a spike. If it goes off again straight away, there is a short or an overload behind it. More on this in the knowledge base

Usually it is not the freezer that fails but the circuit it is on, because of another appliance on the same circuit or an RCD tripping. So put the freezer and fridge on their own circuit, or at least not together with the washing machine and the outside tap. A temperature alarm or a smart plug warns you before it is too late. More on this in the knowledge base

Usually it is the heating element of the washing machine, dryer or dishwasher that has absorbed moisture or has internal leakage. It often happens exactly while heating up. Test it by plugging in only that appliance and running a programme with heating. If the RCD trips then, the appliance needs attention, not the installation. More on this in the knowledge base

A mesh system goes in without cables and works reasonably in most homes, as long as the units can see each other well. Wired access points each have their own full connection and perform better, especially with thick walls or lots of devices. If a cable can be run, go wired. More on this in the knowledge base

You may film your own house and grounds. If the camera regularly films the public road or the neighbours' garden, rules apply and you can be held to account. So aim it tightly and use the masking feature. Technically, wired with power over ethernet is the best choice: no batteries to change and always a picture. More on this in the knowledge base

The provider's engineer brings the fibre into your home and fits a connection point and a modem, usually in the meter cupboard. Everything after that is your own cabling. If you want that speed upstairs or in the shed too, that is the moment to have network cables laid. More on this in the knowledge base

Connect a laptop directly to the modem with a network cable and test. If it stays stable, the problem is your Wi-Fi or your own network. If it drops out on cable too, it is the modem or the provider. Note the date and time of every drop-out; with a list, a provider takes it seriously. More on this in the knowledge base

A modem, a switch and a small recorder can go in the meter cupboard, as long as there is ventilation and there are sockets. The Wi-Fi router does not belong there: under the stairs behind a door the signal gets nowhere. A cupboard on the landing is often the better spot for network gear. More on this in the knowledge base

Cat 6 is more than enough for a home and considerably cheaper than cat 7. Lay two cables per point, because a second connection costs next to nothing during installation and half a day afterwards. Bring everything together in a central spot with power and ventilation, usually the meter cupboard or a cupboard on the landing. More on this in the knowledge base

Plan for at least six sockets at the desk, a network point for stable video calls, and lighting from the side rather than straight above the screen. If the workspace is in the loft, also check which circuit it is on: a loft is often still on the lighting circuit. More on this in the knowledge base

Wi-Fi is weakened mainly by walls, floors and insulation with a metal layer. A more powerful router does not solve that, because the problem lies between transmitter and receiver. What does work is a second point closer by, ideally fed by a cable. A network cable to the loft or the shed is the most lasting solution. More on this in the knowledge base

First check what voltage your bell transformer supplies, usually 8 or 12 volts, and buy a chime to match. Put it in a central spot in the house, not in the meter cupboard, because you will not hear it anywhere from there. If you want to hear it in several places, a second chime or a wireless extension chime is possible, provided the transformer has enough power. More on this in the knowledge base

A bell transformer converts 230 volts to a low voltage, usually 8 or 12 volts, which your doorbell runs on. If the bell does not work, in order of likelihood it is: the push button, the bell itself, the wiring, and only last of all the transformer. First measure whether there is voltage coming out of the transformer. More on this in the knowledge base

A door opener pulls back a latch as soon as it gets power, so the door can open. With fail-secure the door stays locked when there is no power; with fail-safe it opens instead. Which you choose depends on the door's function: for an escape route there are requirements. The voltage is usually 12 or 24 volts and comes from its own transformer. More on this in the knowledge base

First work out whether the problem affects one flat or all of them. If it is one flat, it is the indoor unit or the branch to it. If it is all flats, it is the power supply, the central unit or the bell panel. If the door does not open while the bell does work, it is the door opener or its transformer. More on this in the knowledge base

Modern two-wire systems carry power, speech, video and door release over two conductors. If there is a two-core cable running from the entrance to each flat, replacement without chasing walls is usually possible. With systems that use one conductor per function, or with damaged cabling, new cable does have to be pulled, and then the riser decides what is possible. More on this in the knowledge base

An intercom system in a block consists of a bell panel at the entrance, a power supply in the building's meter cupboard, a riser cable through the building and an indoor unit per flat. When replacing it, the question is always whether the existing riser can be reused. With two-wire systems it usually can, and then disruption stays limited. More on this in the knowledge base

A code lock needs no management, but the code inevitably leaks out. A badge system lets you issue and revoke access per person, and it records who came in when. Access by phone is convenient but depends on the internet and a service from the supplier. For a business or owners' association (VvE), a badge system is usually the wisest choice. More on this in the knowledge base

A video doorbell usually needs 12 to 24 volts and considerably more power than a classic bell. The old 8-volt transformer of a few VA is too light for it and has to be replaced. Over short distances the existing bell wire is often fine for the power supply. On consumer models the video goes over Wi-Fi; on proper intercom systems it has its own cable. More on this in the knowledge base

Yes. For businesses, landlords and owners' associations (VvEs) I offer a service plan: periodic checks, priority for faults and a fixed point of contact. One-off inspections and repairs are also possible without a plan. What makes sense for you depends on the number of properties and how critical the installation is.

Earthing lets a faulty appliance send its current to earth, so the RCD or circuit breaker switches off. In modern homes that runs via an earth electrode in the ground or via the grid operator's connection. Earthing to the water pipe has not been allowed for a long time, certainly not now those pipes are plastic. Whether the earth is sound is shown by a measurement. More on this in the knowledge base

Type AC is no longer allowed in new installations. Type A is the standard and covers almost everything in a home. You only need type B or F where DC leakage can occur, for example with some EV chargers and inverters. A type B costs € 200 to € 350 extra, so it pays to check whether you really need one. More on this in the knowledge base

Press the test button (T) while the installation is on as normal. The switch should drop out immediately. Then put it back up. If nothing happens, your RCD is not working and you currently have no protection against earth leakage. Do this twice a year. More on this in the knowledge base

An arc fault detection device, also called an AFDD, recognises the electrical pattern of a sparking or smouldering connection and switches off before a fire starts. Your RCD and circuit breaker do not see that kind of fault. Expect € 90 to € 180 each. Worthwhile for bedrooms, lofts, timber structures and wherever people sleep who cannot get out quickly. More on this in the knowledge base

Most meter cupboards from before 1990 no longer meet what is expected of an installation today. You can check ten things yourself without unscrewing anything. If you recognise three or more, have it looked at. If you recognise one of the first four, that alone is reason enough. More on this in the knowledge base

Look at four things: is there an RCD in the unit, are there screw-in fuses instead of circuit breakers, do the sockets have earth contacts, and is the wiring fabric-covered or PVC. If the RCD is missing or there is fabric-covered wiring, the installation is decades old and should be checked and usually renewed. More on this in the knowledge base

A surge protector diverts a short voltage spike to earth, so your equipment does not have to absorb it. Such spikes come from lightning strikes nearby and from switching operations on the grid. For a detached house, with solar panels on the roof or with expensive equipment, it is a sensible choice. It only works if the earthing is sound. More on this in the knowledge base

Since 1 July 2022 every home in the Netherlands must have a smoke alarm on every floor, existing homes included. An alarm belongs on the ceiling, in the middle of the room or on the escape route, and at least thirty centimetres from the wall. Interlinked alarms that all go off as soon as one detects something are considerably safer than standalone alarms. More on this in the knowledge base

NEN 1010 divides the bathroom into zones, measured from the bath and the shower. In and directly around the bath almost nothing is allowed. Outside the zones a socket is allowed, provided it is protected by a 30 milliamp RCD. Lighting and mirror cabinets must have an IP rating that suits their zone. More on this in the knowledge base

Plan for a separate circuit for the hob, one for the oven, one for the dishwasher, one or two for the worktop sockets and one for the fridge. Induction almost always needs its own connection, on many models two-phase or three-phase. Plan the sockets before the kitchen is ordered, because after that the cabinets are fixed. More on this in the knowledge base

Three-phase power is 400 volts across three phases, and you need it for heavy equipment: a workshop machine, a large cooking installation, a compressor or a 22 kW EV charger. In a home with a three-phase connection, adding a three-phase circuit is work in the meter cupboard. If you only have single-phase, a heavier connection is needed first, and that takes weeks. More on this in the knowledge base

In a brick wall or plasterboard wall, cables can usually be hidden by chasing or by using the cavity. In a load-bearing wall there are limits to the depth and direction of the chase. In listed buildings, concrete walls and where it has to be quick, neat surface mounting in trunking or conduit is often the wiser choice. More on this in the knowledge base

Look at three things: is there still physical space on the rail, do all circuits that need one have an RCD, and does the main connection suit what is being added. If one of the three is missing, the unit should be part of the work. During a renovation that is cheaper, because the walls are open anyway and there is no need to make dust a second time. More on this in the knowledge base

I am allowed to move the consumer unit, but the connection with the meter belongs to the grid operator and you have to apply for that separately. It usually goes in two steps: first prepare the new spot with all the circuits, then the appointment with the grid operator to move the meter. Expect weeks between application and completion. More on this in the knowledge base

An extension usually gets its own circuit or two, connected to the existing meter cupboard, provided there is room. Have cables run straight away for outdoor lighting, an outdoor socket, network and possibly future air conditioning or sun blinds. The extra cost is small now and hefty later. More on this in the knowledge base

There are two moments. The first is first fix, when the walls are open and chasing and pulling cables is still possible. The second is second fix, when everything has been plastered and painted. In between comes the work of the plasterer and the painter. Call well ahead for the first moment, because the cable layout determines what is possible later. More on this in the knowledge base

In your own home, doing electrical work yourself is not prohibited, but the installation must comply with NEN 1010. If something goes wrong and the work turns out not to meet the standard, an insurer can reject the claim. Stricter rules apply to rented property, owners' associations (VvE) and commercial premises. Work on the consumer unit, the bathroom and anything fixed is better left to a professional. More on this in the knowledge base

An ordinary motion sensor detects moving differences in heat. So it also reacts to a cat, to warm air from a vent and to a branch in the sun. Mount it at about 2,20 to 2,50 metres, aim it across the walking direction, and set the three knobs: sensitivity, time and dusk level. More on this in the knowledge base

Outdoor lighting belongs on its own circuit behind an RCD, with buried cable in the garden and watertight connections. It can be switched by a dusk sensor, a timer, a motion sensor or a combination. An empty duct always goes in alongside: extending it then takes an afternoon instead of digging again. More on this in the knowledge base

First try a bulb you know works. If that does not work either, check whether the circuit in the meter cupboard has tripped. If the rest of the room works, the fault is in the switch, in the fitting or in a connection behind it. From that point on it is work for an installer. More on this in the knowledge base

An old dimmer can have a minimum load of as much as forty watts. Four LED bulbs together do not reach that, and then the dimmer starts acting up: flickering, buzzing or not switching fully off. An LED dimmer with a low minimum load solves that. Choose dimmable bulbs of one brand and do not mix them. More on this in the knowledge base

Think in three layers: general lighting for the room, task lighting where you do things, and mood lighting for the evening. Switch those layers separately. Choose one colour temperature for the whole house, usually around 2700 kelvin, so it stays calm. Decide this before the cables go in. More on this in the knowledge base

With two-way switching you switch a light from two places, with two two-way switches and an extra conductor between them. From three places an intermediate switch goes in between, or an impulse relay with ordinary push buttons. The latter is often the neater solution for a stairwell or a long corridor. More on this in the knowledge base

Smart bulbs only work if they always have power, so you should not really use the ordinary switch any more. That goes wrong as soon as someone visits. Smart switches or modules behind the switch keep the normal controls working and are therefore the better choice in a home with several occupants. More on this in the knowledge base

Spotlights in a ceiling with insulation above must be suitable for covering, otherwise they overheat. A fire-rated ceiling needs a spotlight that does not compromise the fire rating, or a fire hood around it. For an average room, allow one spotlight per one and a half to two square metres, depending on the light output. More on this in the knowledge base

When selling a home, an electrical inspection is not compulsory, but it is sensible. It measures whether the earthing is sound, whether the RCDs work, whether the cable insulation is in order and whether the protection suits the cables. The report is useful for the buyer, the insurer and as support for the asking price. More on this in the knowledge base

The customer portal is your personal account on my website. Once logged in you have access to the dashboard, invoices, charts, quotes, chat, profile, settings, support and legal documents. You log in with the email address and password you received from me.

The dashboard gives you an overview: open invoices, open quotes, your latest quote requests (status: received or converted) and, if there is one, your next scheduled appointment. Buttons and links take you straight to Invoices, Quotes or other sections.

In the menu on the left, click "Invoices". There you see a list of your invoices (date, amount, paid/open). No invoices yet, or a message about a missing customer number? Then get in touch with me; I will link your account to the right details.

Yes, if a payment link is available. For an open invoice you can click "Pay" or "iDEAL". You are then taken to a secure payment page (iDEAL). Or you can set up a SEPA mandate for direct debit under Settings. The iDEAL button only shows if I have switched on online payment.

Quote requests are requests you have sent through the website (for example for an EV charger or consumer unit). In the portal you can see their status on the dashboard and under Quotes: received or converted into a quote. To request a new quote, use the "Request a quote" menu item: it opens the form on the website.

Under Settings you will find: a link to Profile, People & Access (if you have those rights), Security (change password), possibly Verify details (identity for payments), Notifications (email for invoices/support, push, annual statement), Language (Dutch/English), Link SEPA, PDF preferences and payment or reporting preferences.

Click "Support" in the menu. There you can create a new support request (ticket): enter a subject and message, and optionally a category or a link to an invoice/quote. You can also reply to existing tickets. For quick questions you can use the Chat.

You can if your account has the "Manage people" rights. You will then see the People & Access section under Settings. There you can add extra users (email, name) and manage them (e.g. freeze, password reset). Cannot see it? Then it is not available for your account; get in touch if you need it.

Sometimes I want to take over your screen briefly to help you (e.g. on the phone). You then get a pop-up with a code. You choose "Allow" or "Decline". Only if you allow it can I view your portal. You can give or withdraw permission under Profile (portal help).

Yes. Go to Profile and look for the Security or two-factor authentication section. Click enable, scan the QR code with an authenticator app on your phone (e.g. Google Authenticator) and enter the code to confirm. From then on you also enter the code from the app every time you log in. This makes your account more secure.